Wings 2

Left Wing
Gretz Pitot Install
Left Tank
TruTrak Roll Servo
Capacitive Senders
Closing Left Wing
Wings 3
Wings 4
Firewall Forward

Wings 2



Description of Task   Hours
  Left Wing  
10/20/06 Today I started by setting up the right wing on the stand and clamped it down.  I decided to build up the left wing and then with it on the cradle I can work on the ailerons and flaps for both wings simultaneously.  Since this is mostly a repeat of the steps with the right wing I will not be posting as many pictures.  I will have pictures of new issues as they present.


10/21/06 I drilled the spar to #40 for all the 124 platenut rivets as well as all the other flange rivets top and bottom.  Then I countersunk the rivets.  I then dabbed the countersinks with Alodine using a Q-tip.  I began riveting the #8 platenuts.  I started countersinking the platenut hole for the #8 screw.  I used a cut-off #8 screw to gauge the countersink depth.


10/22/06 Finished countersinking the spar for the #8 screws...all 62 of them.  Alodined each countersink.  I also riveted the #6 platenuts for the inspection covers.

Drilled and riveted the two center section platenuts on the spar.  Drilled the tie-down bar to the spar and attached the four platenuts and primed using the rattle can.  Bolted the tie-down and torqued to 25 in/lbs.

Began working on the left wing rear spar.  Drilled and clecoed the W-907D and W-907E doubler plates to the spar.  Drilled the hole for the aileron pushrod using my Unibit then cleaned it up with my Dremel tool.  Took the whole assembly apart and deburred the spar and doubler plates.   The rear spar is ready to chemically treat with SanChem.


10/27/06 Using the SanChem, I chemically treated the rear spar and doubler plates.  After drying, I countersunk the holes in the rear spar where needed.  I used alodine to spot-treat the countersunk holes and riveted the rear spar assembly.  I saved myself some time and just referenced Smitty's website to determine which holes received rivets and which shouldn't.

Next, I placed the main spar and rear spar on the table and clecoed the ribs to the spars.  You have to pay attention to the plans to arrange the ribs in the proper orientation.  I was really proud when I had finished to find that I had NO left-over ribs :)

10/29/06 Match drilled the main ribs to the front and rear spars.  Disassembled the ribs and set aside for chemical treating.


11/3/06 Scotchbrite scrubbed all 15 main ribs with soap and water.


11/4/06 Etched and chemically treated the main ribs.  Clecoed the main ribs to the main spar and riveted.  Clecoed the rear spar to the main ribs and riveted.

Drilled the 1"x1" angle to the outboard rib and attached.  Hung the left wing assembly on the wing stand.  Drilled the wing walk doubler as per the plans.  Clecoed the inboard skin, doubler and outboard top skin to the wing skeleton.


11/5/06 Match drilled the inboard and outboard skins to the ribs.  Cut, deburred and drilled the J-stringers to the top skins.

Gretz Pitot Install

I am attempting to determine the best location for mounting my Gretz pitot.  I basically have three options.

Option 1:  This is where Vans suggests installing the pitot and has holes in the ribs to this bay for routing lines.  I feel the pitot head will be too close to the tie-down ring.

Option 2:  This location is one bay outboard of an inspection panel and plenty far from the tie-down, but is located in the center of the wing (inboard to outboard).  Not sure if that really matters.
Option 3:  This location is also one bay outboard of the 3rd inspection panel and is the most outboard location.  It will require routing the pitot tubing around the bellcrank.

I have just about ruled out Option 1 due to the close proximity of the tie-down.  Option 2 or Option 3 are still possibilities.


11/18/06 Today my friend, Anton D'Allen came over to help me out and proved to be a great helper.  We started out by match drilling the bottom skins. 

After much debate I decided to go with Option 1.  This is the only option that avoids running the pitot tube and wiring through the bellcrank area.  I fabricated the attach angle and drilled the bracket for riveting to the skin.  I then reattached the bottom skin and marked it for the pitot bracket cutout.  Cut the skin for the bracket and drilled for rivets.  I primed the pitot mounting tube and riveted the platenuts.  I will set the assembly aside until I rivet the bottom skins.

We clecoed the ribs in the leading edge assembly and mounted to the spar and clecoed.  Fabricated the W-919 splice strip and drilled and clecoed with the W-908 rib.

More Gretz Pitot install here.

11/19/06 Match drilled left wing leading edge. 2.0

Total Hours

  Left Tank  
11/18/06 I put the left tank skin in the cradle and clecoed the ribs.  I had to use my board and clamping technique in order to get the clecos in but it worked.  Next, I trimmed the T-911 and T-911-INBD stiffeners, deburred and match drilled them to the tank skin.  Next, I carefully oriented the attach angles on the rear baffle.  Then, using the W-932DG drill guide, I drilled each attach angle to #30.
11/19/06 Drilled attach angles to 3/16" for spar attach and clecoed to tank baffle.  Back-drilled attach brackets, removed and deburred.  Deburred tank baffle.  Re-attached baffle and clecoed to tank skin.  Pop-riveted the attach brackets to baffle.  Installed tank to wing spar and clecoed through spar with 3/16 clecos and through tank skin to spar with 1/8 clecos.
12/2/06 Drilled the tank attach brackets through the spar and then removed the tank from the spar.  I had only put one pop rivet in each bracket and as a result the brackets moved as they were drilled.  Sooo, off goes an order to Vans for replacement brackets.  I decided to go ahead and order replacement elevator counterbalance weights since I seem to have trimmed them to be too light.  Started to countersink the tank skin at the baffle attach.
12/3/06 Finished countersinking the baffle attach rivet line.  Drilled out the bad tank attach brackets.  Trimmed the T-410 reinforcement plates.
12/9/06 I'm still waiting for the replacement tank attach brackets so on to other tasks.  I deburred the bottom skin ribs and began deburring the bottom skins.

TruTrak Roll Servo Bracket Installation
I received my servo bracket assembly and soon discovered I had been sent the support bracket for the right wing install.  I fired off an email to Stein so I expect to get this resolved quickly.  The installation is really a mental challenge because the bracket comes with no instructions.  After some time, this is the final result...minus the support bracket. (UPDATE: Received a replacement bracket from TruTrak... Great service!)

12/10/06 Deburred the left wing bottom skins, then dimpled.
12/21/06 Disassembled and deburred the leading edge skin, ribs and splice plate.  Drilled the splice plate for rivets and deburred.  Dimpled the splice plate.  Used a reamer to enlarge the hole for the tie-down bolt to final size.  Set aside for priming.

My replacement tank attach brackets finally arrived today so I'm back in business.  I drilled the brackets and pop riveted to the tank (using two (2) rivets this time).  After back drilling through the spar, I removed the tank from the spar and placed in the cradle. 

I removed the attach brackets from the baffle by drilling out the pop rivets.  Drilled the attach brackets for K1000-3 platenuts.  Countersunk the brackets and washed down with MEK.  Set the brackets aside for priming.

Fabricated the T-905 attach angle.  I used the bench grinder to finish trim the angle.  I match drilled the attach angle to the inboard rib and set aside for priming.

12/22/06 Primed the tank attach brackets.  Riveted the platenuts to the attach brackets.

Fabricated the T-410 reinforcement plates to the inboard and outboard ribs and test fit/ground down until the fit was perfect.  Deburred and match drilled the T-410 reinforcement plates to the inboard and outboard ribs. 

I match drilled the capacitive sender plates to the second and sixth ribs per the plans.  Drilled the 3/8" hole for the BNC connector in the inboard rib.  Deburred, dimpled and riveted the platenuts in the capacitive plates. 

Used the fly cutter to cut the access hole in the inboard #1 rib.  Match drilled the T-411 plate.  Drilled the 3/8" holes in the inboard rib for the fuel vent fitting and the fuel vapor return fitting.

Fit and drilled the T-406B fuel cap flange.  Deburred and countersunk the flange.  I also fabricated the T-914 clip from a scrap of .020.

12/23/06 Countersunk the T-407 stiffener ring for the platenuts.  Deburred and countersunk the T-407 and riveted the platenuts.  Drilled the hole for the fuel pick-up since the T-411 plate did not have it pre-drilled.

Fit and match drilled the VA-112 drain flange.

Drilled the holes in ribs #2 and #3 for the fuel return line and deburred.

Chemically treated leading edge ribs, splice plate, T-905 attach angle and T-411 cover plate.

Disassembled tank and deburred stiffeners and ribs.  Deburred skin.  Fabricated the small plate for covering the tooling hole in the outboard rib.  Drilled and deburred cover plate.  Scuffed skin along rib and stiffener line.

12/26/06 Dimpled leading edge and left tank skins.  Set up area and prosealed and riveted stiffeners, fuel flange, drain flange and cover plate for tooling hole in outboard rib.  I used my new (used) pneumatic Semco dispensing gun for dispensing the proseal and it worked great.

Riveted the platenuts on the splice plate.

12/27/06 Prosealed and riveted tank ribs #2-#6.  Drilled anti-rotation bracket to T-411 tank access cover plate.
12/30/06 Prosealed and riveted the inboard and outboard ribs.  Riveted the T-905 attach angle and the T-410 reinforcement plates. 

Prosealed and riveted the anti-rotation bracket to T-411 tank access cover plate.


12/31/06 Capacitive Sender Installation
I wanted to detail the installation of the capacitive senders for the fellow builders who would like to see the details.

I started by loosely installing the inboard and outboard capacitive plates.  Then installed the BNC sender in the inboard rib.

I rough installed the vent tube and when I had the proper length I flared the end and loosely installed to the AN-4 bulkhead fitting.

Next, I crimped and then soldered the ring connectors on the wire ends.

I then twisted the 18 AWG wire around the vent tube to secure the wire and remove the excess slack.  Then I loosely connected the connectors to the capacitive plates.

Then I installed the plates permanently.

Next, I installed the fuel vapor return line.  Like the right wing tank, I ran the return to the middle of the third bay.

Finally, I mixed up 4 oz. of proseal and coated the bulkhead fittings of the vent tube and vapor return line and torqued to 55 in/lbs.  Then I covered the entire fittings with proseal.  I also covered the ring connectors and connector screws and nuts.  I also prosealed the wire in places where it could rub against the tank skin.

Here is the final shots before I close up.

Installed the fuel sender with proseal and safety wired.


1/1/07 Prosealed along rivet lines and attached baffle with clecos in every hole.  Attached and prosealed tank attach brackets.  Riveted baffle to tank, riveted baffle to rib flanges and riveted tank attach brackets to baffle/rib flanges.
1/5/07 Mixed 2.0 oz of proseal and applied to the inboard rib around the cover plate.  Applied the cover plate and, after swirling each screw in proseal, attached permanently.  Now to let the proseal cure for about a week and test for leaks.


1/13/07 Tested tank for leaks.  NO LEAKS!

Total Hours

  Closing Left Wing  
1/6/07 Deburred top outboard wing skin and began dimpling.
1/7/07 Dimpled top outboard wing skin.  Deburred top inboard wing skin and the wing walk doubler and dimpled both. Deburred J-stringers and dimpled.  Began deburring wing ribs and rear spar in preparation for dimpling.
1/11/07 Received notification from Van's yesterday that my fuselage kit will be shipped the week of February 5th.  I had better get moving to finish the wings.  I finished deburring the main wing ribs and rear spar and started dimpling.
1/12/07 Finished dimpling main wing ribs and rear spar.  Used deburring tool to "ream" the dimples in the rear spar.  Now it's time to prime!
1/13/07 Chemically treated the leading edge skin. 

Polished one of my fuel tank caps.  Several builders are opting to buy the Van's "deluxe" fuel caps.  I couldn't justify spending an additional $100 per cap so I made my own.  I started by disassembling the cap.  Next I started sanding with 240 grit sandpaper.  I progressed through 320 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit and finally wet sanded with 1000 grit.  All in all it took 30 minutes for the first cap.


1/14/07 Began riveting the leading edge together.
1/19/07 I finished riveting the leading edge and placed on the spar.  I started riveting the leading edge to the spar and riveted all that I could reach by myself.

I began the process of chemical treating the inside of the top skins as well as the wing walk doubler and the J-stringers.  Since it was around 26 outside and the water froze on contact with the skins, I was only able to clean scuff the skins and chemically clean/etch the skins.

1/20/07 Today my friend and fellow EAAer, Jim Olsen, came over to help me rivet the top skins.  I started by chemically treating the inside of the skins and set them aside to dry.  Jim helped me by bucking the inside spar flanges of the leading edge.  We then used the pneumatic squeezer to rivet the top and bottom to the spar flange.

Next we mounted the fuel tank and bolted it to the spar.  The bolts were torqued to 25 in/lbs.  Next we screwed the tank top and bottom to the spar flange.  I was pleased to see there was no gap between the leading edge and the tank.

We then clecoed the inboard and outboard skins to the spars and ribs. 

My EAA Technical Counselor, Kyle Boatright, called as he was heading our way for a visit so we met him at Copperhill airport.  Kyle had not seen the project since I had received the wing kit so he looked it over pretty well.  I really like having Kyle looking over my shoulder not only because he has built an RV but because he is exceptionally knowledgeable in so many areas of aircraft construction.  With Kyle's letter of approval, we returned him to the airport.

After a great Mexican food lunch, Jim and I returned home and riveted the top skins.  Like the right wing, we back-riveted the top skins and then riveted the J-stringers.  We then removed the wing from the stand and placed it in the cradle.  After Jim left, I finished riveting the skins to the rear spar.



Total Hours

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