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Firewall Forward
PC680 Battery Box Install
Engine Mount Install
Exhaust System Install
Alternator Install
Prop Arrives!
Injector Fuel Lines
Soldering Connector Lugs
Fuel Flow Transducer
Fitting the Cowling
Installing Mounting Strips
Installing Cowl Hinges
Pinhole Removal
Oil Filler Door Install
Firewall Forward 2
Canopy
Wiring
Engine
Miscellaneous


Firewall Forward
 

Date

Description of Task   Hours
3/1/08 I received my FWF kit yesterday so today I inventoried. 

PC680 Battery Box install

I started with the assembly of the PC680 battery box.  I drilled the 3/4" holes in the battery tie-down bar and then drilled the 2" holes on the battery box.  After deburring I drilled and clecoed the attach angles.

 

2.5
3/2/08 Today I scuffed the battery box and attach angles and primed and painted.

While waiting for paint to dry I went ahead and drilled and installed the ground "forest of tabs".

 

2.0
3/3/08 Tonight I finished riveting the angles to the battery box and installed it on the firewall.

 
1.0
3/7/08 Today I went ahead and drilled the rivets and additional holes through the firewall in order to install the B&C battery contactor and starter contactor.  I also fabricated the doubler plate to support the firewall.

 
2.0
3/8/08 Today I made pretty good progress.  I began by installing the fuel pressure and oil pressure manifold.  Next, I installed the adel clamps for the oil pressure line along the firewall.  I then installed the stainless steel heater air box.  I also drilled the holes in the firewall for the throttle cable, mixture cable and the access hole for the nose gear bolt.

Engine Mount Install

Lastly, I went ahead and fitted and drilled the engine mount.  I started with drilling the top left hole to 3/8" then temporarily bolting the mount to the firewall.  Next, I match-drilled the top right hole and bolted.  I then match-drilled the left and right lower holes and the two inner holes last.  I did not tighten the nuts to final torque since I will probably need to remove the engine mount again (hopefully not).

The two inside (lower) mount attach points "stand off" from the firewall about 3/16".  I need to research how others have dealt with this.

 

5.0
3/9/08 I decided to go the simple route and fabricated two "square" washers out of .063 aluminum.  Worked like a charm.

I had heard other builders mention that the nose gear wheel as shipped from Vans has the wheel bearings attached to the wheel and has no grease.  The problem is that without grease the bearings can rust.  I went ahead and greased both bearings using Aeroshell 33 multi-purpose grease just to be safe.
 

1.5
3/16/08 Today I finished installing my HID wingtip lights.  Afterwards, I installed the ANL 60 fuse holder and fuse.  There are no instructions at this point so I decided to fabricate a backing plate for the fuse holder.  The holder is very light but since all other firewall penetrations have doubler plates I felt it was prudent.  I riveted platenuts to the doubler plate and riveted the doubler to the firewall.  Finally, I fabricated a short piece of copper sheet to connect the starter contactor to the ANL fuse holder.

 
2.0
3/23/08 I used my hole punch from Harbor Freight to enlarge the throttle and mixture cable access through the firewall.  Then I installed the eyeball fittings.

 
1.0
4/27/08 I torqued the six bolts attaching the engine mount to the firewall (160 in/lbs) and installed the cotter keys.

 
1.0
9/7/08 I placed the top cowl on the engine just for perspective...

Exhaust System Install

The Plans say the first thing to install is the exhaust as everything else has to route around it.  I bought the system from Larry Vetterman at Vetterman Exhaust.  It was fairly easy to understand and went on in about an hour.

I also installed the heat muff but will probably need to adjust it later.

Alternator Install

Next was the Plane Power AL12-EI60/B alternator.  I just temporarily installed because I need to confirm the torque value for the bracket bolts to the engine case.  I also need to purchase another belt so I can safety tie it to the engine.  This is a trick many builders use so if a belt breaks they don't have to remove the prop to replace.

Lastly, I installed the Sky-Tec 149-12HT starter.  I torqued the bolts to 100 in/lbs.

 

6.0

 

9/10/08 Tonight I torqued the boss mount for the alternator to 204 in/lbs and safety wired.  I then torqued the support arm and safety wired as well.

Next, I soldered connector lugs on a length of 2 AWG cable and connected the Alternator output terminal to the shunt on the firewall.  I also temporarily secured the cable in two places with Adel clamps.

I also secured the fuel line from the throttle body to the servo where it runs up and through the inner-cylinder baffle with a pair of Adel clamps.

 

2.0
  Prop Arrives!
 
 
9/12/08 I got an email Friday that my Catto Prop had arrived at the Mineral Bluff Post Office so I picked it up and brought it home.  It was in excellent condition and was packed very well.

I took the tape and padding off one tip to inspect the paint.  I had shipped the paint to Craig having never seen the true color (other than as painted on the prototype HondaJet).  The blue paint has a different look when in different lighting conditions such as here when shot with flash and without.

I took a picture of the prop label.

I went ahead and temp-installed the prop and test-fitted the spinner.

 

Installed Injector Fuel Lines

I followed the Lycoming Service Bulletin and installed the lines with two Adel clamps per line.


Soldering Connector Lugs on 2 AWG Welding Cable

I wanted to show how to solder connectors on the 2 AWG cable.  These cables are used to connect the alternator and starter as well as the main battery leads.  The only trick is to use a butane torch (Radio Shack) or a propane torch on LOW flame to heat the connector and wire enough for the solder to "wick" into the wire strands.  The 14 AWG wire pieces are used to fill the gaps and make a tight fit with the wire and connector.

I placed the cable in a vise to hold it steady and used needle-nose pliers to insert the 14 AWG wire pieces.

Add heat shrink and you are good to go!

 

6.0
9/19/08 Today I met Bill Repucci who flew over from Charlotte, NC to serve as a Tech Counselor visit.  Bill felt it was safe for me to keep building.  We flew his RV-9 over to Blairsville airport for fuel and let me have a little stick time.

I wanted to get the top skin on in order to fit the windscreen and begin fitting the cowl so I concentrated on finishing lacing the wiring.  I also ran the alternator wiring to the panel.
 

3.0
9/20/08 I needed to arrange the wire runs in the engine compartment so I decided to go ahead and connect the fuel pressure transducer and the oil pressure transducer.  Added the fuel overflow fitting to the fuel pump.

 
6.0
9/21/08 Today I had lots of other projects going so my plane time was minimal.  I did go ahead and pull my P-Mag and E-Mag for shipping back to Emagair for compliance with the SB.  I also went ahead and installed the SD-8 backup alternator on the vacuum pump pad.

I spent most of my time working on fitting the windscreen.
 

4.0
  Fitting the Cowling
 
 
  I spent about an hour trying to get the cowl halves to fit together at the front.  I tried trimming and used a file to clean up the mold lines but there is only so much I can do.  I will be trying to get the prop opening as close to round as possible and then work to get the top cowl mounted.

 
 
  Fuel Flow Transducer
 
 
9/26/08 I installed the AFS fuel flow transducer temporarily in order to see how it will work.  I can see no reason why it won't so I ordered custom hoses from Brett at Bonaco to replace the stock fuel hose I got with the Airflow Performance fuel injection system.

I stopped by a local sheet metal shop today and had them cut strips 2.25" from a sheet of .064".  These will be the support strips for the Skybolt cowl fasteners.

 

2.0
9/27/08 Installed the two braided grounding straps I got from B&C.

I then drilled the strips to the firewall flanges.  I made one solid piece for the top, two for the sides and two for the bottom.  I cut the strips 2.5".

I started fitting the top cowl by scribing a line 2.0" behind the firewall flange.  I then marked back on the cowl and cut with my Dremel tool.  I made sure to leave a 1/8" gap between the spinner back-plate and the cowl.

 

6.0
9/28/08 After getting the top cowl close, I started trimming the bottom cowl by cutting out the gap for the nose gear.  Since I have a Catto three-blade prop, I had to extend the cut an additional 3.0".

I finally was able to get the bottom cowl in place but I am not pleased with the fit of the cowl halves at the front.  I will be researching how others dealt with the poor fit before continuing.  Here is the left side...

Here is the right side.

 

4.0
10/9/08 I spent several hours last weekend as well as a few nights this week trimming and fitting the cowl halves.  I would cleco the halves in place and mark where it needed trimming then re-cleco them back up.  After way too much time, I had them fitting well enough to drill the side hinges.

 
12.0
  Installing Mounting Strips
 
 
10/10/08 I laid out the spacing for the Skybolt fasteners around the firewall and trimmed them to final size.  Skybolt suggests a spacing between fasteners of 3.5"-4.0" but I have seen some cowls that "pucker" between the fasteners in flight.  I set my spacing at 3.25" across the top and 3.5" on the sides and bottom.

I then installed the cowl halves and drilled #40 to mark the fastener location.

 

6.0
10/11/08 Today I used the drill template and drilled each fastener to #30 in order to rivet the fasteners to the strips.

Next, you use another template and drill the center hole to 11/32" using a #3 Unibit.  Then you rivet the 33 fasteners to the strips (making sure to align the fasteners with the adjustment hole).

Lastly, I riveted the fastener strips to the firewall flange.

 

6.0
  Installing Cowl Hinges
 
 
10/17/08 I prepped the side hinges for the lower cowl for riveting by drilling 1/4" holes between the rivets for the epoxy to help adhere to the hinge.  I then countersunk the rivet holes along the side of the lower cowl. 

I then mixed up some epoxy with micro balloons to thicken it up and applied a thick layer to the cowl.  I then laid the hinge section in and clecoed every hole.  After letting it set up for an hour, I riveted.

While waiting for the epoxy to set up, I went ahead and re-installed my P and E-Mags.  I had removed them a couple of weeks ago and shipped them back to Emagair due to a SB.  They installed a neat temperature strip on the Mags to alert me if the mags ever are getting too hot.

 

3.0
10/18/08 I epoxied and riveted the right side hinge on the bottom cowl.

 
2.0
10/19/08 Today I mixed a batch of 50% epoxy/50% acetone and brushed on to the bottom cowl and set aside to cure.  Afterwards, I will sand it down and repeat in order to get a handle on the pinholes.  I also epoxied and riveted the right side hinge on the top cowl.
 
2.5
10/20/08 Epoxied and riveted the right side hinge on the top cowl.

 
2.0
  Pinhole Removal
 
 
10/21/08 This evening I mixed a batch of 50% epoxy/50% acetone and brushed on to the top cowl.

 
.5
11/1/08 I washed both cowl halves with dishwashing liquid and rinsed with water.  After drying, I sanded the top and bottom cowl halves and blew all the sanding dust off.  I will be using the Loehle WonderFil for pinhole removal and then spraying with a sanding sealer.  This will suffice until I get around to painting the plane.

 
2.0
11/7/08 I drilled the holes for the Skybolt fastener grommets to full size.

 
1.0
  Installing the Oil Filler Door
 
 
  I marked the top cowl and cut out the opening for the oil door.  I then began installing the "hidden hinge" system and drilled the hinge to the cowl.  I countersunk and riveted the hinge half to the top cowl with epoxy and micro.

 
2.0
11/8/08 I cut an oil door out of .040 AL to replace the fiberglass one sent in the kit.  I used a drum sander roller to bend the curve in the door.

 
1.0
11/9/08 I drilled and clecoed the hinge to the oil door.

I installed the hidden oil door latch by drilling "weep" holes for the epoxy to hold. 

Then, I drilled four holes for clecoes to hold the latch in place while the epoxy cured.  I then mixed a thick mix of micro and bedded the latch and clecoed.  I then glassed the latch with 9oz. BID and covered with peel ply.

 

2.0
11/13/08 I was not happy with the gap left by the hinge so I pulled the hinge pin and removed the door.  I then drilled out the rivets and ground out the micro and removed the hinge half from where it was bonded to the cowl.

I then fabricated a couple of shims out of .063" and .028" AL to fit under the hinge half in order to get the hinge to pull the door tighter to the cowl when closed.  After test fitting, it appears that I will need both shims to provide the right fit.

 

2.0
11/14/08 I then adjusted the latch until it held the door tightly closed.  I then countersunk the door and riveted the hinge and latch.

 
2.0
11/30/08 Went ahead and applied WonderFil on the spinner and after wiping off, I sprayed using SEM sanding primer.

 
1.0

 

     
 

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