Date

PC680 Battery Box install

I started with the assembly of the PC680 battery box.  I drilled the 3/4" holes in the battery tie-down bar and then drilled the 2" holes on the battery box.  After deburring I drilled and clecoed the attach angles.

 

While waiting for paint to dry I went ahead and drilled and installed the ground "forest of tabs".

 

Engine Mount Install

Lastly, I went ahead and fitted and drilled the engine mount.  I started with drilling the top left hole to 3/8" then temporarily bolting the mount to the firewall.  Next, I match-drilled the top right hole and bolted.  I then match-drilled the left and right lower holes and the two inner holes last.  I did not tighten the nuts to final torque since I will probably need to remove the engine mount again (hopefully not).

The two inside (lower) mount attach points "stand off" from the firewall about 3/16".  I need to research how others have dealt with this.

 

I had heard other builders mention that the nose gear wheel as shipped from Vans has the wheel bearings attached to the wheel and has no grease.  The problem is that without grease the bearings can rust.  I went ahead and greased both bearings using Aeroshell 33 multi-purpose grease just to be safe.
 

Exhaust System Install

The Plans say the first thing to install is the exhaust as everything else has to route around it.  I bought the system from Larry Vetterman at Vetterman Exhaust.  It was fairly easy to understand and went on in about an hour.

I also installed the heat muff but will probably need to adjust it later.

Alternator Install

Next was the Plane Power AL12-EI60/B alternator.  I just temporarily installed because I need to confirm the torque value for the bracket bolts to the engine case.  I also need to purchase another belt so I can safety tie it to the engine.  This is a trick many builders use so if a belt breaks they don't have to remove the prop to replace.

Lastly, I installed the Sky-Tec 149-12HT starter.  I torqued the bolts to 100 in/lbs.

 

Next, I soldered connector lugs on a length of 2 AWG cable and connected the Alternator output terminal to the shunt on the firewall.  I also temporarily secured the cable in two places with Adel clamps.

I also secured the fuel line from the throttle body to the servo where it runs up and through the inner-cylinder baffle with a pair of Adel clamps.

 

I took the tape and padding off one tip to inspect the paint.  I had shipped the paint to Craig having never seen the true color (other than as painted on the prototype HondaJet).  The blue paint has a different look when in different lighting conditions such as here when shot with flash and without.

I took a picture of the prop label.

I went ahead and temp-installed the prop and test-fitted the spinner.

Installed Injector Fuel Lines

I followed the Lycoming Service Bulletin and installed the lines with two Adel clamps per line.

Soldering Connector Lugs on 2 AWG Welding Cable

I wanted to show how to solder connectors on the 2 AWG cable.  These cables are used to connect the alternator and starter as well as the main battery leads.  The only trick is to use a butane torch (Radio Shack) or a propane torch on LOW flame to heat the connector and wire enough for the solder to "wick" into the wire strands.  The 14 AWG wire pieces are used to fill the gaps and make a tight fit with the wire and connector.

I placed the cable in a vise to hold it steady and used needle-nose pliers to insert the 14 AWG wire pieces.

Add heat shrink and you are good to go!

 

I wanted to get the top skin on in order to fit the windscreen and begin fitting the cowl so I concentrated on finishing lacing the wiring.  I also ran the alternator wiring to the panel.
 

I spent most of my time working on fitting the windscreen.
 

I stopped by a local sheet metal shop today and had them cut strips 2.25" from a sheet of .064".  These will be the support strips for the Skybolt cowl fasteners.

 

I then drilled the strips to the firewall flanges.  I made one solid piece for the top, two for the sides and two for the bottom.  I cut the strips 2.5".

I started fitting the top cowl by scribing a line 2.0" behind the firewall flange.  I then marked back on the cowl and cut with my Dremel tool.  I made sure to leave a 1/8" gap between the spinner back-plate and the cowl.

 

I finally was able to get the bottom cowl in place but I am not pleased with the fit of the cowl halves at the front.  I will be researching how others dealt with the poor fit before continuing.  Here is the left side...

Here is the right side.

 

I then installed the cowl halves and drilled #40 to mark the fastener location.

 

Next, you use another template and drill the center hole to 11/32" using a #3 Unibit.  Then you rivet the 33 fasteners to the strips (making sure to align the fasteners with the adjustment hole).

Lastly, I riveted the fastener strips to the firewall flange.

 

I then mixed up some epoxy with micro balloons to thicken it up and applied a thick layer to the cowl.  I then laid the hinge section in and clecoed every hole.  After letting it set up for an hour, I riveted.

While waiting for the epoxy to set up, I went ahead and re-installed my P and E-Mags.  I had removed them a couple of weeks ago and shipped them back to Emagair due to a SB.  They installed a neat temperature strip on the Mags to alert me if the mags ever are getting too hot.

 

I installed the hidden oil door latch by drilling "weep" holes for the epoxy to hold. 

Then, I drilled four holes for clecoes to hold the latch in place while the epoxy cured.  I then mixed a thick mix of micro and bedded the latch and clecoed.  I then glassed the latch with 9oz. BID and covered with peel ply.

 

I then fabricated a couple of shims out of .063" and .028" AL to fit under the hinge half in order to get the hinge to pull the door tighter to the cowl when closed.  After test fitting, it appears that I will need both shims to provide the right fit.

 

Next: Firewall Forward 2